Blindstitch sewing machine for felling bluff edges on coats



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Pat ented June 8, 1926.

UNITED STATES 1,538,132 PATENT OFF-ICE.

CHARLES W. MUELLER, ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR TO LEWIS INVISIBIlESTITCH MACHINE CO.,'OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION MAINE.

BLINDSTITGH'SEWING MACHINE FOR FEIaLIN-G BLUFF EDGES ON COATS. I

. Application filed February 9, 1924. Serial No. 691,638.

by a line of blind stitches, and the acing of the coat is then turnedover upon the interlining. 'Although the fold thus formed issubsequently pressed, there is a tendency during the wearing of'the coatfor, the edge thus seamed and folded to roll, that'is, the f edgeportion of the facing tends to roll outwardly. To overcome thisobjection it has been customary to hand stitch the facing to the lining,but this hand operation is necessarily slow and consequently costly, the

stitches are spaced irregularly and great care must be exercised inorder to" avoid any of these hand made stitches from penetrating thefore-part of the coat, or creating puckering in the outer face or fairside of the facing due to the stitches being set too I tightly.

Oneof the principal objects of this invention is to provide a high speedblind-stitch sewing machine for producing an edge seam -wherebyproduction will be materially increased and the cost thereof will becorrespondingly reduced, the edge of the coat will be retained againstrolling, the stitches will be equally spaced apart and will penetratethe facing and interlining at a uniform depth, and the stitches will beconstructed and arranged so asto avoid all puckering effect on the fairside of-the facing.

Another object of the invention is to provide such a sewing machine witha'plunger mechanism for intermittently crimping or forming the materialinto a node in advance of each penetrating movement of the needlewhereby the needle will penetrate the inter-lining on each reciprocationbut will penetrate the facing only on alternate reciprocations.

Another object of the invention is to proclamp vide a machine of thecharacter described with means for intermittently releasing thetension'of needle thread whereby alternate tight and loose stitches willbe formed, the

tightstitches engaging the interlining only and the loose stitchesengaging both the interllmng and the facing, and whereby the seam thusproduced, will be sufficiently tight for all practical purposes and willnot only prevent the edgeof the coat from rolling but will also avoidall puckering effect on the fair side of the facing.

\Vith the above and other objects in view which will more readily appearas the nature of the invention is better "understood, the same consistsin the novel construction, combination and 'arrangementof partshereinafter more fully described, illustrated and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrateone form of my invention,

Figure 1 is an elevation of the left hand end of a sewing machineembodying my in vention.

Figure 2 is a front elevation of said sew' ing machine, parts thereofbeing shown in section. Y I

' Figure 3'is a vertical sectional on the line 33 of Figure 2.

V Figure 4 is a .detail'pla'n View showingthe quick adjusting means forthe plunger.

Figure 5 is an enlarged detail sectional view showing the work'presenting mechanism. j

Figure 6 is a perspective viewof the work Figure 7 is a part plunger.

Figure 8 is a plan view of the presser foot showing the relation of thework, the needle andthe plunger.

Figure 9-is a similar view, but without the work.

Figure 10 is a bottom plan view of the presser foot.

Figure 11 is a' front presser foot.

perspective View of the twoelevation of the Figure 12 is an enlargedcross-sectional view'of the presser foot taken on-the line 12.12 of Fig.9. I I

Figure 13 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line 13-13 of Fig.8, and showing the relation between the work, the presser-foot, thep1unger,--the work. clamp,

view taken I ing the relation between the feed dog, the

work clamp, and the plunger.

Figure 17 is a detail sectional horizontal view of the intermittentneedle thread tensioning mechanism.

Figure 18 man enlarged detail elevation showing the locking means forthe cam I which controls the needle thread tension.

Figure 19 is a detail view showing the guide, and stop for the workclamp.

Figure 20 is a sectional view showing the initial joining of'thefore-part, interlining and facing.

Figure 21 is a sectional view showing the parts folded and temporarilystitched.

Figure22 is a plan. View of the seam while in the process of beingformed.

Figure 23 is a sectional view thereof taken on the line 23-23 of Fig.22.

Figure 24 is a similar View 'but taken on the line -2424 of Fig. 22, and

Figure 25 is an end elevation showing more or less diagrammatically, thegarment and completed seam.

Like reference numerals designate" corresponding parts throughout theseveralfigures of-the drawings.

The present invention is illustrated herein as embodied in ablind-stitch sewing machine of the Lewis type, such'as is shown in thepatent to John G. Lewis, 1,172,812, issued Feb. 22, 1916, having a baseor bed-plate 5, a post or standard 6, and an overhanging arm'7 whichsupports at its outer end a stitching head 8, the base 5 carrying aworkpresenting mechanism 9 which is disposed directly under saidstitching head 8. The stitching head carries at its lower extremity apresser foot 10 for cooperation with the stitch forming and workpresenting mechanisms.

' The operating parts of the stitching head 8 and the work presentingmechanism 9 are driven from a main shaft ll which extends longitudinallyin the overhanging arm 7 and is suitably journaled therein, said shafthavg a hand wheel pulley fixed to the right hand end thereof.

This sewing machine is particularly adapted for joining the edgeportions of the facing and interlinin of a coat, the seam per se formingthe 'StlbJCCt matter of my copending application filed Jan. 9, 1924,Ser. No. (535,174, and the method of forming the seam constituting thesubject matter of my copending application filed Feb. 9, 1924, Ser.-

In order to understand the operating parts of this machine, and theirfunctions, it is advisable to first describe the seam which is producedby said machine and the method of producing the sea-m. herefore,referring particularly to Figures 20 to 25, l have illustrated a coat Awhich, as usual, comprises a fore-part 12, a facing 13, an interlining14 and a tape 15. The fore-part 12, facing 13, and tape 15 are firstdisposed in superposed relation with their outer edges coinciding, andthe entirety is then joined by a line of t-hrough-and-through stitches16 which parallel said outer edges, thus constituting the primary seam.The interlining 14 is then joined to the tape 15 by a line of blind,stitches 17 which I have diagramamtically shown in Figures 23, 24 and25.-

The purpose of securing the interlining to the primary seam is anincident of manufacture, and, therefore,.the interlining and the tapemay be considered as an entirety, viz:

an interlining which is secured to the fore-' part and facing by theline of stitches-16.

I then fold the facing 13 upon the interlining 14 and temporarily seamthe parts as thus folded by a line of basting stitches 1b, which arepreferably of the single thread chain stitch type and are disposed in aline parallel to and adjacent the lnfolded edges of the facing andfore-part, as shown in Fig. 21. The edge portion thus folded andtemporarily stitched, will hereinafter be referred to as the main seamedportion 19.

' I then open the work thus previously seamed so as to position thefacing 13 in a substantially horizontal plane on one side of the mainseamed portion 19 and position the interlining 14 and fore-part 12 insuperposed relation and in substantially the same horizontal plane asthefacing, but on the other side of the main seamed portion 19, saidmain seamed portion being disposed below the horizontal plane containingsaid facing, fore-part and interlining and arranged with its outer ormarginal edges projecting upwardly. Thus the facing and the interliningare folded in one direction and the forethrough the sewing machine shownin the accompanying drawings.

The sewing machine includes a needle 20 having a needle thread 21 and acooperating rotary hook 22 carrying a bobbin thread 23, the needle andthe hook being both disposed above the work and supported by thestitching head 8. The needle is arranged to oscillate about a horizontalaxis and across the line of seam. Cooperatingv with the work is thepresser foot 10 having an opening 25, a feed dog 26, a work clamp 27,and:

a plunger 28. The plunger. 'reciprocates vertically in timed relation tothe needle and feed, and comprises relatively fixed and movable parts'29 and 30 respectively, as clearly illustrated in Figures 14 and 15.The upper ends of these parts 29 and 30 are 'conjointly formed with aguiding channel 31 for the reception of the main seamed portion 19. Theplunger engages the under face of the work and causes the latter to beforced into a node, which is projected by said plunger through thepresser-foot opening 25 into the path of the needle 20. In

alternate reciprocations of the plunger, the

relatively fixed part 29 is projected above the relatively movable part30 as shown in Figure 15, and inasmuch as'the fixed part 29 engages thefacing 13, the latter will be elevated into the same horizontal plane asthe interlining 14, which interlining 14 and fore-part 12 are disposedabove and are engaged by the relatively movable part 30 of the plunger.In this position as shown in Fig. 15, the needle 20 willenter and emergefrom the upper faces of the facing 13 and interlining l4, and leave apenetrant needle thread loop 32 which is anchored by the bobbin thread23. In the intermediate reciprocations of the plunger, the relativelystationary part 29 will remain in its normal position, that is, with itsupper end disposed in substantially the same horizontal plane as theupper end of the relatively movable part 30. In this position as shownin Fig.

14, the needle 20 will not enter the facing 13, but will enter andemerge only from. the up- 7 per face of the interlining14 by reason ofthe facing 13 being at this time disposed in a plane below the path ofreciprocation of the needle 20, and leave a penetrant needle thread loop33 in said interl'ining,'the loop 33 being anchored by the bobbin thread23. The stitching head 8 is rovided withan intermittent tension mecanism 34 which acts on the needle thread 21 to loosely concatenatethe*needle thread loops 32 with the bobbin thread 23, and to tightlyconcatenate the needle thread loops 33 with said bobbin thread. Thus thestitches which engage the facing and interlining are loosely set,whereasthose stitches which engage theinterlining only are tightly set.v If the usual needle thread t-ension were employed, and this tensionwere. loosened,

then all of the stitches would be loosely set and a seam of suchlooseness would be created which would fail to function to retain theseam from rolling, although such loosely .set stitches would eliminate apuckered appearance of the outer face or fair side of the facing.

tratmg the facing and interlining during every other stitch only,coupled with the tight setting of the alternate stitches which engagethe interlining only, there results an ideal situation in that thefacing'is retained against rolling during'the wearing of the By'reasonof the needle thread loops pene-.

loose setting of such stitches, and'with the garment and the appearanceof dimples or puckering on the outer face or fair side of thefacing isprevented. The intermediate tension mechanism forms the subject-matter696, filed February 14, 1924.

The work handling mechanism 9 which cooperates With the presser foot 10includes the feed dog 26, work clamp 27 and the plungen28.

of my copending application Serial N 0. 692,- v

The feed dog is of the 4-motiontype, that i i ing lug 37 and their lefthand ends jourvnaled in bearings formed in a block 38 which isdetachably secured to the left hand end of the base 5 by screws 39- 39.Fixed to the outer end of the feed travel shaft 35 is a rock arm 40 andpivotally connecting the outer end of the rock arm and the forwardextremity of the feed dog 26 is a link 41. The rock arm 40 extends in ageneral vertical direction and the link 41 extends in a generalhorizontal direction. n Thus upon movement of the rock arm 40, the-link41 will impart backward and forward movements to the feed dog The feeddog 26 is ivotally connectgd as at 42 to the upper en of a substanti llyvertically disposed link 43, the lower end of said link being pivotallyconnected as at 44 to the horizontal arm 45 of a bell crank lever 46,the vertical arm 47 of said bell crank leverbeingpivotally connected asat 48 to one end of a ink 49, the other end of said link 49 being of avertically-disposed rockarm 51 fixed to the feed lift shaft 36. Inorder-.to maintain the feed surface of the feed dog in a substantiallyhorizontal plane during the pivotally connected as at 50 to theouter endfeeding movements thereof, I provide a spring 52 which is connectedbetween a pin 53 on the link 43 and a pendent tail 54 fixed to the feeddog 26. It will, therefore be observed that upon rocking movement of thefeed lift shaft 36 the vertical link 43 will be bodily raised andlowered and consequently the feed dog will be given its up and downmovements. By'proper timing of the shafts 35 and 36 a 4-way feed motionwill be imparted to said feed dog.

The bell crank lever 46 is pivoted as at and this pivot is fixed to ahead 56 secured to the lower end of a guide post 57, said head and postforming a vertically movable carrier. The post 57 is mounted forvertical sliding movements in a bore formed in the block 38, and thisblock is formed with a seat for receiving and limiting the upwardmovement of the carrier. This carrier is normally held in its highestposition by means of a flat spring 59, the inner end of which is rigidlysecured to the base 5 and the outer end thereof is disposed under thecarrierso as to yield-ably hold the latter in its highest position.Theupper end of the post projects above the bloc-k 38 and carries a pairof rearwardly projecting arms 60-60 between which is pivoted as at 61the work clamp 27.

From the foregoing it will be observed that when the feed dog 26 iselevated to its highest position, the fulcrum of the bell crank lever46, is then .shifted to the pivot- 44 and consequently the last part ofthe rocking movement of the crank arm 51 will cause the bell crank lever46 to be moved downwardly about its fulcrum 44' thus lowering the workclamp 27. The parts are so timed that the work clamp isthus loweredprior to the feeding movement of the feed dog.

engage the fabric and clamp the latter against the presser foot 10 priorto the time the feed dog begins its downward 'movement;

In order to rock the feed travel shaft35 and the feed lift shaft 36,-. Iprovide the main shaft 11 with eccentrics 62 and 63 respectivcly. Aconnection rod 64 has its upper end engageable with the eccentric 62'and has its lower end pivotally connected as at 65 to a rock arm 66fixed to the feed travel shaft 35. A connection rod 67 has its upper endengageable with the eccentric 63 and has its lower end pivotallyconnected as at 68 to a rock arm 69 fixed to the feed lift shaft 36. Itwill be noted that the connec tion rods 64 and 67 are disposed withinthe post 6 of the machine frame.

It will be observed that when the carrier is moved downwardly againstthe tension of the spring 59, both the feed dog 26 and the work clamp 27will be correspondingly moved, thus creating a suflicient space underthe presser foot to insert or withdraw the work. In order to so depressthe carrier, I

have provided an operating lever 70 which is fulcrumed on the base 5 andhas one end disposed in contact with theupper face of the head '56 ofthe carrier. The other end of the lever is adapted to be raised throughthe application of a knee shifting device or treadle, neither of which,however, is shown in the drawings.

In order to intermittently feed and clamp the work in the positionpreviously de scribed, I have constructed and arranged the feed dog andwork clamp in such a 7 2. The top plate 72 is formed with a pair ofspaced feed slots -75 which extend longitudinally of the clamp plate andreceive thefecd sections7676 of the feed dog 26. The top plate 72 andthe end walls 73 and 74 are conjointly formed with a slot 7 7 whichextends longitudinally of the clamp plate and is disposed intermediatethe feed dog slots 7575. The slot .77 is provided to receive thedepending" or main seamed portion 19 of the work. In order to properlyguide the main seamed portion 19, I have provided the clamp plate 26with a channel guide 78 which is formed of sheet metal and is positionedwithin the forward portion of the slot 77 and secured to the top plate72 by solder or other suitable means. The side walls 979 of said channelguide project slightly in advance of the curved front end wall 73 so asto assist not only in the initial loading of the machine but also duringthe operation of the machine to 'guide the main seamed portion in properrelation past the needle 20. The top plate 72 and the channel guide 78are conjointly formed with an opening 80 for receiving the upper end ofthe plunger 28.

Inasmuch'as the needle 20 oscillates across the line of feed, it' willbe apparent that the channel guide 78 extends in a direction at rightangles to the path of reciprocation of said needle, and that saidchannel guide is disposed intermediate the feed dog sections.

As previously stated, the work as it is fed past the stitching headisadapted to be in termittently cri'mped or bent so as to form a nodewhich will be positioned in the path of the needle whereby the latterwill enter said node and project a penetrant needle thread looptherethrough. 'In order to permit the work being thus crimped,the.presslit ' seamed and the work is upwardly bent or crimped into thisopening by means of the vertically reciprocatory plunger 28 whichcomprises relatively fixed and movable parts 29 and 30 respectively. Inother words, this lunger. comprises a main section 29 and an auxiliarysection 30. The sections 29 and '30 respectively includesemi-cylindrical shanks 81 and 82 having flat abutting faces 83 and 84whereby when the shanks are placed together the entirety will constitutea cylindrical shank of a diameter to freely fit within a verticallydisposed barrel 85 mounted to slide within a bore formed in the endblock 38. The relatively fixed section 29 is formed with a centrallydisposed depending reduced shank 86 having a threaded lower end 87. Therelatively movable section 30 is formed with a longitudinally extendinggroove 88 for receiving the reduced shank 86 when said sections arerelatively moved. The movable section 30 is also provided with alaterally extending sleeve 89 at its lower end which embraces saidreduced shank 86 of the fixed section. Thus by means of the opposed flatfaces 83 and 84, the sections, will have no relative oscillatorymovements but may have relative longitudinal movements. The upper end ofthe semi-tubular shank 81 is provided with an enlarged head 90 whichforms a resultant shoulder 91 and the semi-tubular shank 82 is formed atits upper end with an enlarged head 92 forming a resultant shoulder 93.The head 90 is cut away on its innerv face to form a resultant crimpingfinger 94 and the head 92 is cut away on its inner face to form aresultant crimping finger 95, the upper edge 96 of the finger 94 beingdisposed in a horizontal plane higher than the horizontal planecontaining the upper end 97 of the finger 95 when the sections arepositioned so that their shoulders 91 and 93 engage the upper end of thebarrel 85, as

shown in Figure 15. By reason of the heads,

90 and 91 being cut-away on their' inner faces, not only the fingers 94and 95'a1e thereby formed, but also the transversely extending guidechannel .31 for the main portion 19 of the work is thereby formed.

The lower end of the barrel 85 is fixed to a lug 98 and the lowerthreaded end 87 of the I reduced shank 86 of the relatively fixedsection 29 of the plunger extends-through an opening formed in said lugand threaded onto the lower projecting end thereof are lock nuts 99. Therelatively fixed section 29 by reason of the shoulder 91, and the barrel85, is thereby fixedly secured to the lug 98 so to move therewith. Inother words the fixed section 29 cannot movedownwardly relative to thebarrel 85 on account of said shoulder 91, and neither can it moveupward- 1y relative to the barrel on account of the lock nuts 99. Thebarrel is thus clamped between the shoulder 91 of the relatively fixedsection 29 and the" lug 98. Disposed within the barrel 85 between thesleeve 89 of the relatively movable plunger section 30 and the bottom ofthe barrel, is a coil spring 100 which yieldably holds the plunger inits highest position relative to the lug 98 so that inthe normalpositions of the parts the upper end of the movable plunger section 30will be disposed above the upper end of the relatively fixed plungersection 29, the shoulder 93 of said movable section being disposed abovethe upper-end of the barrel 85 a distance to permit relative movementsof the sections whereby the upper end of the movable section 30 may bedisposed below the horizontal plane containing the upper end of saidrelatively fixed section 29.

As previously described, the work is intermittently fed past the stitchforming feed and oscillates directly over the plunger 28. The needle 20in one reciprocation passes through the interlining 14 only, as shown inFig. 14'while in the next oscillation it passes through both the facing13 and the, lining 14, as shown in Fig. 15. In order to bring thissituation about, the presser foot 10 is provided with a verticallyadjustable stop 101 which is disposed directly above the auxiliary orrelatively movable section 30 of the plunger whereby both theinterlining 14 and fore-part 12 are disposed. intermediate said stop 101and the relatively stationary section 30 of the plunger. It will bereadily observed that the vertical position of the stop 101 determinesthe depth of needle penetration in the interlining relative to the upperface thereof. The higher the stop 101 is adjustedthe deeper will be theneedle penetration in the interlining and "vice versa.

The vertical position of the reciprocation of the plunger is bodilyvaried so that the lining; whereas, in the other vertical position of'reciprocation, the main section will main or relatively fixed section 29thereof project the facing 13 below the-path of the needle travelwhereby the needle will enter the interlining only.

lVhile I have shown the stop 101 as being attached to the presser foot10, it will be apparent that this stop may be carried by any fixed partof the sewing machine.

The presser foot 10 is provided with the usual throat plate 102 whichcooperates with the rotary hook 22 as is usual in this'type of stitchforming mechanism. This throat plate 102 extends in the line of feed,that is, in the plane at right angles to the path of needle travel, andattached to said throat plate by a horizontal pivot 103 is a lever 104having a depending rear' portion 105 which terminates at its lower endin the stop 101. This stop lever is disposed entirely in front of thepath of needle reciprocation. An adjusting screw 106 is threaded intothe front end of the adjusting lever and is adapted to bear against thebody portion of the presser foot. The upper end of this adjusting screw106 is provided with a head 107 having its periphery formed with aplurality of notches 108 for automatieengage ment by a spring latch 109fixed to the lever 104 by a screw 110. By turning the screw 106 in aclockwise direction the lever will be rocked about its fulcrum so as tolower the stop 101 relative to the path of needle reciprocation.Inasmuch ,as the stop 101 is disposed directly above the movable section30 of the plunger, the upward movement of said movable section isthereby limited and'consequently the lower the stop 101 is positionedthe lesser depth of needle penetration in the interlining will beobtained. The lever will be held in any position of adjustment by meansof thespring latch 109. WVhen it is desired to increase the depth ofneedle penetration in the interlining the stop 101 may be elevatedthrough the medium of the adjusting screw 106'which, of course, isturned in an anti-clockwise direction.

From the foregoing, it will be noted that the work while being fed pastthe stitching mechanism the main seamed portion and the adjacentportions of the facing and interlining will be always retained in adefinite arrangement relative to the needle. In order to assisttheguiding of the work past the stitch forming mechanismtI have provided onthe front edge of the presser foot a seam guide 111. This guide issupported on the foot by a screw 112 and the upper end of this guide isprovided with a substantially vertically disposed, and forwardlyextending guiding fin 113 which is adapted to ride upon the main seamedportion 19 and between the interlining 14 andfacing 13.

The plunger 28 is vertically reciprocated through the medium of a rockshaft 114 which extends longitudinally of the base 5. This rock shaft isprovided wi h a crank arm 115 which is connectedto the lug 98 throughthe medium of a link 116. The rock shaft 114 is located below theplunger and the link 116 extends substantially vertically when theplunger is in its highest position.

consequently the plunger will be vertically reciprocated. Q

As previously noted it is desirable to bodily vary the vertical positionof reciprocation of the-plunger and to this end I have supported therock shaft 114 in the cradle 117 This cradle includes a rock shaft 123which extends longitudinally of the base 5 and has one end journaled onthe block 38 through the medium of a pin 124 and its other end journaledon the depending lug 37, through the medium of a pin 125. The rock shaft123 is provided with downwardly and rearwardly extending rock arms126126 in which the plunger rock shaft 114 is jour-v naled. The rockshaft 123 of the cradle is provided adjacent its right-hand end with alaterally and longitudinally extending rock arm 127 having forwardlyextending arms 128128. Disposed between the arms 128-128 is a sleeve1'29. forming a slide bearing for the lower end of a vertically disposedcam roller shaft 130. The sleeve 129 is sup ported on'the arms 128-128by horizontally disposed pivot pins.131131. Fixed to the sleeve 129 isa'face cam 132 which is formed on its upper face with a curved surfacecontaining diametrically opposed high points 133133 and diametricallyopposed low points 134134. The cam roller shaft 130 extends upwardlythrough the post 6 of the frame and is driven from the main shaft 11 bya gear coupling 135 which reduces the speed of rotation of the camroller shaft 130 relative to the main shaft 11 by the ratio' of 1 to 4.This gear coupling 135 includes a spiral gear 136 which is fixed to thecam roller shaft 130. through the medium of a collar 137, and a spiralgear 138 which is fixed to the main shaft 11. "he camroller shaftextends through a concentric opening in the cam 132 and fixed to theshaft directly above said cam is a sleeve 139 which carries the camroller 140 engageable with the cam face of the cam. The upper end of thecam roller shaft 130 above the gear coupling 135 is mounted within asleeve 141 which has threaded engagement with an opening formed in aplate 142 detachably secured to the upper end of the frame. The lowerend of the sleeve rests on the collar 137 of the gear coupling. Fixed tothe upper end of the sleeve 141 is a laterally extending hand lever 143by means of which the sleeve may be turned and the vertical positionthereof consequently adjusted. A screw 144 is threaded into the upperend of the cam roller shaft 130 and-the head of this screw bears againstthe upper end of the sleeve 141. Thus, the cam roller shaft 130 is heldagainst longitudinal movement relative to the sleeve '7 8 by means ofthe gear collar 137' and screw 144.

By turning the hand lever 143 in a clockwisediiection, the sleeve 141will be moved downwardly, and through the medium of the gear collar 137the cam roller shaft 130 will moved downwardly for a correspondmgdistance. This downward movement of the cam roller shaft and cam roller140 which 1s carried thereby, causes the cradle 117 to .be rocked, thuselevating the plunger shaft 114, the latter being moved upwardly in theare about. the pivot of the cradle. This upward bodily movement of therock shaft 114 will in turn bodily elevate the position of re- Iciprocation of the main section 29 of the plunger. v

By turning the hand lever 143 in an anticlockwise direction, the camroller shaft 130 Wlll be elevated and the plunger rock shaft 114 will belowered thus lowering the bodily position of reciprocation of said mainsection 29 of the plunger. I

In order to lock the sleeve 141 in a predetermined position ofadjustment, and yet permit of a rapid release and new adjustment, I haveprovided the hand lever 143 with a releasable latch which cooperateswith the plate 142. This latch comprises an upwardly extending housing145 which is fixed to and is located at the outer end of the hand lever80. This housing has a closed upper end and an open lower end. Disposedwithin the housing is a vertically movable latchpin 146, the'upper endthereof projecting through an opening formed in the upper end of thehousing and having a finger piece or head 147 fixed thereon, the lowerend of said latch-pin projecting below said housing for engagement inany one of a plurality of seats 148 which are formed in the plate 142.

w These seats are spaced apart and are disposed in a circle which isconcentric to the sleeve 141. Fixed to the slower portion of thelatch-pin 146 is a shoulder 149, and disposed around the pin between theupper end of the housin and said shoulder is a coil spring 150 whichnormally urges the latchpin" downwardly. The cradlemechanism togetherwith the quick adjusting means therefor, forms the subject-matter of mcopending application, Serial No. 684, 45, filed January 7, 1924.

Thus, after the plunger mechanism has been set, and the operator.desires to effect a quick adj ust-ment of the plunger, either up ordown, it is only necessary'to raise the latch-pin against the tension ofthe spring 150 and then while holding the'latch-pin in its raisedposition, swing the hand lever 143 in the desired direction for requireddistance,- and then release the pin whereupon the latter willautomatically. seat itself in the registering seat 148. The operator, bycounting the number of seats intervening between the seat of originalsetting and the seat of adjustment, may readily return the parts to 3their original setting.

I have provided a coil spring 151 which is disposed between the frontwall of the base 5 and therock arm 152, fixed to the cradle 117. Therock arm 152 is formed with a rectangular slot 153- and disposed inthis; slot is an angular sleeve 154 having a threaded borefor receivingthe rear end of a [bolt 155, the rear end of the sleeve 154 being formedwith flanges 156 which engage the rear face ofthe rock arm 152 andthereby prevent forward movement of said sleeve 154. Fixed tothe outerend of the bolt 155 is .a knurled head 157 which bears against saidfront wall of the base 5. 'The spring 151 serves to rock the cradle 117when the cam shaft 130 is elevated whereby the cam 132 and cam roller140 will remain in contact.

When either of the high points 133 of the cam 132 is engaged by theroller 140, the -cradle 117 will be rocked and the plunger rock shaft114 will be elevated to its highest position. The cam 132 is cut so asto pro- 109 duce an extreme limit of movement for adjustment of thebodily reciprocation of the plunger, thus providing a plunger mechanismwhich will take care of fabrics of different weights. As the cam roller140 leaves the high point of the cam and engages the low points 134thereof, the cradle 117 will be returned, that is, rocked throughtheaction of the coil spring 151 and the plunger rock shaft 114 will bethen in its lowermost position. v I

The needle 20 is centrally carried by a yoke shaped needle bar 157pivoted as at' 158 at. the extremities of its limbs on the head 8. Oneof the needle barlimbs has a lever prolongation c159 and this leverprolongation is pivoted to the lower end of .a link 160, the upperend'ofthe link 160 being pivotally connected with a wrist pin 161 of acounterweighted crank arm 162 carried by a jack shaft 163 which isjournaled in the head 8 and is operated from themain shaft 11 by aone-to-one gear cou-. pling' 164. The axis 158 of the needle bar isdisposed parallel toThe line of feed and is located directly above theplunger 28. Thus the needle20 is caused'to oscillate in'a plane at rightangles to the direction of feed. Inasmuch as a one-to-one gear coupling164 is employed, the needle 20 will make onecomplete oscillation toevery ,rotation of the main shaft 11. The needle 20 cooperates with thehook 22 to-form a series of lock stitches. This hook is rotated in theusual manner common to lock stitch machines of the Lewis type. It issuflicient to state that the hook is supported on a horizontallydisposed shaft and is driven from the jack shaft 163 through the mediumof an in clined shaft 165 and a two-to-one gear coupling 166. Thus thehook will be rotated twice for each oscillation of the needle and willcooperate with the needle in a manner well known to those skilled inthis art.

A take-up arm 167 for the needle thread 21 is fixed to a sleeve or hub168 whichis .journaled on .a horizontal pin 169 in the head 8. A rockarm 170 is also fixed to the sleeve o-r hub 168 and has slidingengagement with a block 171 which is pivotally connected as at 172 to alaterally'extending rigid arm 173 of thelink 160. The take-up arm 167 isthus given a differential rate of motion in an appropriately timedrelation to theneedle oscillation. In the cyclic operation the take-uplever is given a rapid rise and slow descent and an extended dwell inits lower position. The

needle thread 21 is led from the supply to a stationary thread guide 174fixed to the head 8, thence through tension discs 175, and 17 6respectively of the intermittent tension device 3a, thence through aspring tension which is indicated as a whole by the numeral 177, thencethrough a guide eye 178 formed in the outer end of the take-up arm 167and thence to the needle 20[ The intermittent tension mechanism 34functions as previously stated to loosely concatenate the needle threadloops 32 with the bobbin thread 23 and to tightly concatenate the needlethread loops 33 with said bobbin thread. The tension'discs 175 and 176are mounted on a horizontal rod 179 mounted to slide longitudinally in ahorizontal bore 180 formed in the head 8.

This rod is preferably held against rotary movement, however, by a screw181 having threaded engagement with the head 8 and operating in alongitudinal groove182 formed in said rod. This screw and grooveconnection retains the rod against rotary movements but permits of alimited longitudinal movement of said rod. Formed on the front end ofthe rod 179 isa flange or 187 is a heavy coil spring 188 which hasconsiderably more tensional strength or pressure than the spring 185.The spring 188 acts against the nut 187 to urge the rod 179 rearwardlyso as to cause the flange or shoulder 183 to force the tension discsagainst each other and against the frame 8. Thus in the normal positionof the parts the needle thread is under the heavy tension of the spring188 and the light spring 185 has practically no effect on the needlethread. The rod 17 9 is adapted to be moved forwardly so as to relievethe tension discs of the heavy pressure exerted by'the spring 188 bypermitting the spring 185 to exert its light tension against said discs.Inorder to intermittently actuate the rod 179 and thereby intermittentlycontrol the tension on the needle thread, I have formed the inclinedhook shaft 165 with a worm 189 which drive a horizontally disposed shaft190 through the medium of a worm 191 formed thereon. The shaft 190 isjournaled in the head 8 and is provided at the outer end with a surfacecam 192 having a single high point 193 adapted to cooperate with the endof the tension rod 179 and thereby move the latter longitudinally torelease the tension. discs from pressure of the heavy spring 188. Thegear connection 189 and 191 for the cam shaft 190 is such that the highpoint 193 will actuate the tension rod 179 during every otheroscillation of the needle. The cam shaft 190 is permitted to rotate butis held against longitudinal movement by means of a keeper 194 which ispivoted to the head 8 at 195. This keeper is formed with a hooked end196 for engagement with an annular groove 197 formed in said cam partsmay be variously changed and modilied without departing from the spiritand scope of my invention.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of bodyfabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with astitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the work and includinga reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the bodyfabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics aredisposed in a. substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides ofsaid previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetratingmove ment in a direction across the line of feed, a guide separate fromthe feed for the previously formed seam disposed below the work, and avertically reciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioninga node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle wherebysaid needlewill penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides 2 feed, meanson the other side of the work for positionin a node formed from saidbody fabrics 1nto the path of the needle whereby said needle willpenetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam,and 'a guide separate from the feeding means and located on the sameside of the work as the positioning means for receiving said previouslyformed seam I whereby the work will be presented to the needle 1n aconstant relation. a

3. In a'sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of bodyfabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with astitch forming mechanism operating entirely on one side of the work andincluding a reciproca-tory needle,

of means operating on the other side of the work for presenting the workto the stitch forming mechanism including an intermittent feed dog andan intermittent work clamp separate from the feed dog, and means forpositioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of theneedle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sidesof said previously formed seam, said work clamp being provided with aguiding channel. extending in the line of feed'for'receiving saidpreviously formed seamwhereby the work will be presented to the needlein a constant relation.

4. In asewing machine for stitchin together the adjacent faces of; bodyfa rics united by a previousl formed seam, the

combination with a stltch formin mecha-' nism operating entirely on onesi e of the work-and'including a reciprocato needle, of means presentingthe work to t e stitch forming mechanism including an intermittent dogand an intermittent work clamp, and means for positioning a node formedfrom said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needlewill penetrate said fabrics on opposite sidesof said previously formedseam, said-work clamp being provided with spaced slots for receiving thefeed dog and with a guidingchannel intermediate said slots for receivingsaid previously formed seam whereby the work will be presented to theneedl in a constant relation.

5. In a sewing machine for stitching to p In a sewing machine forstitching to-- gether the adjacent faces of body fabrics unltedby apreviously formed scam, the combination with a'stitch formin nismoperating entirely on' one si e of the work and including areciprocatory needle, of means presenting the work to the stitchmechaforming'mechanism including an intermittent feed dog and an.intermittent work clamp, and a ver tically' reciprocatory plungeroperating below the work and pro jecting through the work clam forpositioning a'node formed from said intothe path of the needle wherebythe said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of saidpreviously formed seam, said work clamp bein provided with a uidingchannel-exten ing in the lineyof eed for. receiving said previouslyformed seam whereby the work will be presented to the needle in aconstant relation. 7 6. In a sewing machine, for stitchin gether theadjacent faces of body fab united by combination with a stitch forminnism operating entirely on one si e of the work and including areciprocate needle, of means presenting the work to .t e stitch formingmechanism including an intermit rics body fabrics tent feed dog and anintermittent work clamp, and a vertically recipro'catory plungeroperating below the wor and through the work clamp for node formed fromsaid body f rics into the \ipath of the needle whereby said needle willpenetrate said fabrics on'opposite sides of said previously formed seam,said work pro ecting psosltioning a a clamp being provided with aguiding channel extending in the line of feed for receiving saidpreviously formed seam whereby the work will be presented to the needle,in a

constant relation, the upper end of the plunger being provided with achannel guide extending in alinement with the channel guide of thework-clamp.

7. In a sewing machine for stitchin together the adjacent faces of bodyfa rics united by a previously formed seam, the

combination with presser foot disposed above the'work and having anopening, of a stitch forming mechanis m operating above the work andincluding a-reclprocatory needle movable across the openin of-thepresser foot, means for presenting t e work to the;

stitch forming mechanism including'an inlow the work. and cooperating wisaid presser foot, said needle havmgits work penetratin termittent feedand an intermittent clamp separate from th'efeed and arranged be 2120'movement Jin a direction across the lineo 'feed and across the 'open-ving of the presserfoot', and means for pos g tioning a node formed fromsa d bodyqfab rics into the opening of the: :pres'aer footr wherebysaidneedle will penetrate-said fab-t T lat - positioning anodeformedfrom said body ricson opposite sides of said previously formedseam, said work clamp being provided with a iding channel extending inthe line of fee for receiving said previously formed seam whereby thework Wlll be presented to the needle in a constant relation.

8. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of bodyfabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with apresser foot disposed above the work and having an opening, of a clampseparate from the feed and arranged below the work. and cooperating withsaid presser foot, said needle having its work penetratin movement in'adirection across clamp arranged below the work and coop-v the line 0feed and across the opening of the presser foot, and a verticallyreciprocatory plunger operating below the work and projecting throughthe work clamp for fabrics into the opening of thepresser foot wherebysaid needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides' of saidpreviously fg gmed seam, said work clamp being provided with a guidingchannel extending in the line of feed for receiving said previouslyformed seam whereby the work will be presented to the needle inaconstant relation.

v 9. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent 'faces ofbody fabrics. united by a previously formed seam, the combination with apresser foot disposed above the work and having an opening, of a stitchforming mechanism operating above the work and including a reciprocatoryneedle movable across the opening of the prcsser foot, meansforpresenting the work to the stitch forming mechanism including anintermittent feed and an intermittent crating with said presser foot,said needlehaving its work penetrating movement in a'direction acrossthe line of feed and across the opening of the presser foot, and meansfor positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the opening ofthe presser foot whereby said needlelwill penetrate said fabrics onopposite sides of said previously formed seam, said work clamp beingprovided with a guiding channel extending in the line of feed forreceiving said -pre viously formed seam whereby the Work will bepresented to the needle in a constant relation, a verticallyreci rocableplunger op; erating below. the .wor for positioning a node formedfromsaid body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needlewill penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formedscam, the upper end of the plunger being provided with a channel guideextending in alinement with the channel guide of the work clamp.

10. In a sewing machine for stitchin gether the adjacent faces of bodyfa rics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with astitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the work andincludinga reciprocatory needle, of means, for intermittently feedingthe body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said bodyfabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on oppositesides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its workpenetrating movement in a direction acrossthe line of feed, a verticallyreciprocable plunger operatin below the work for positioning a nodeormed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby saidneedle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previouslyformed seam,- said plunger including main and auxiliary sectionsarranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposedunder the fabrics on oppositesides of said previously formed seam, avertically adjustable stop carried by the machine above the auxiliarysection only, a spring for yieldably retaining said sectlons' againstrelative longitudinal movements in one direction, and operating meansconnected to the main section for vertically reciprocating the samerelative to the" auxiliary section and against the tensionof saidspring.

11. In a sewingmachine for stitchin together the adjacent faces of bodyfa rics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with astitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the workand includinga reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the bodyfabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics aredisposed in a substantially horizontal plane. and on opposite sides ofsaid previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetratingmovement in a direction across the line of feed, and a verticallyreciprocable plunger operating-below the work 'for' positioning a nodeformed from said body fabrics into the path'of the needle whereby saidneedle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previouslyformed seamfsaid plunger including main and auxiliary sections arrangedfor relative longitudinal movements and respectivel disposed under thefabrics on 0pposite si es of said previously formed seam, said plungersections being conjointly formed at their upper ends with a guiding"channel for receiving formed seam, a verticall carried by the machine aove the auxiliary section only, a spring for yieldably retainthe.previously 3 adjustable stojp' ing said sections against relativelongitudinal movements in one direction, and operating means connectedto the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative tothe auxiliary section and against the tension of said spring.

12. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces ofbody fabrics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with apresser foot having an Iopening, of a stitch forming mechanism operatingentirely above the presser foot and including a reciprocatory needle, ofmeans for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitchforming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposed in asubstantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides including main andauxiliary sections arof said previously formed seam, said needle having1ts work penetrating movement in a direction across the line of feed andacross the opening of the presser foot, a vertically reciprocableplunger operating below the work for positioning a node formed from saidbody fabrics into the opening of the presser foot whereby said needlewill penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formedseam, said plunger ranged for relative longitudinal movements andrespectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of saidpreviously formed seam, a vertically adjustable stop fixed tothe presserfoot above the auxihary section only, a spring for yieldably retainingsaid sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction,and operating means connected to the main section for verticallyreciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and' againstthe tension of said spring.

13. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces ofbody fabrics united by a previously formed scam, the,

combination with a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above thework and including a reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittentlyfeeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said.body fabrics are disposed ina substantially horizontal plane and onopposite sides of said previously formedseam, said needle having itswork penetrating movement in. a direction across the line of feed, avertically reciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioninga node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle wherebysaid needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of saidreviously formed seam, said plunger inclu ing main and aux iliarysections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectivelydisposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed.seam, a vertically adjustable stop carried by the machine above theauxiliary section only, a spring for! yieldably retaining said sectionsagainst relative longitudinal movements in one direction, operatingmeans connected to'the main section for vertically reciprocating thesame relative to the auxiliary section and against the tension of saidspring, and means for raising and lowering the bodily position ofreciprocation of the plunger without disturbing its reciprocatorymovements. 1

14. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces ofbody fabrics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with astitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the work and includinga reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the bodyfabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics aredisposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides ofsaid previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetratingmovement ina direction across the line of feed, a verticallyreciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioning a nodeformed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby saidneedle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previouslyformed seam, said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arrangedfor relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under thefabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plungersections being conjointly formed at their upper ends with a guidingchannelfor receiving the previously formedseam, a vertically adjustablestop carried by the machine above the auxiliary section only, a springfor'yieldably retaining said sections against relative longitudinalmovements in one direction, and operating means connected to the mainsection for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliarysection and against the tension of said spring, and means for raisingand lowering the bodily position of reciprocation of the plunger withoutdisturbing its reciprocatory movements.

15. In a sewing machine for stitching together the-adjacent faces ofbody, fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with apresser foot having an opening, of a stitch forming mechanism operatingentirely above the presser foot and including a recipro'catory needle,of means for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitchforming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposedin a substantiallyhorizontal planeand on opposite sides of said previously formed seam,said needle having its work enetrating movement in a direction acrossthe line of feed, and across clamp the materia the opening of thepresser foot, a vertically reciprocable plunger operating below the workfor positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the openingofthe presser foot whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics onopposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plunger includingmain and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movementsand respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of saidpreviously formed seam, a vertically adjustable stop fixed to thepresser foot above the auxiliary section only, a spring for yieldablyretaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in onedirection, operating means connected to the main section for verticallyreciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and z againstthe tension of said spring, and means for raising and lowering thebodily position of reciprocation of the plunger without disturbing itsreciprocatory movements.

16. In asewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of bodyfabrics united by a previously formed seam, the corn bination with apresser foot having an opening, of a stitch forming mechanism operatingentirely above the presser foot and including a reciprocatory needle, a.4-motion feed dog cooperating with said foot for intermittently feedingthe body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said bodyfabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on oppositesides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its workpenetrating movement in a direction across the line of feed and acrosstheopening of the. presser foot, a vertically reciprocatory clampcooperatin with the presser foot to against movement durin thepenetrating strokes of the needle and formed with a guide for receivingthe previously formed seam, said clam being formed with an opening, avertically rec]. rocable plunger disposed below the work anoperatpositioning ing through theopening of the clamp-for fabricsintothe opening ofthe presser foot whereby. said needle will penetratesaid fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, saidplunger including'main and auxiliary sections arranged for relativelongitudinal movements and respectively dis-' posed under the fabrics onopposite sides of said previously formed seam, a vertically adjustablestop fixed to the presser foot above the auxiliary section only, aspring for yieldablyretaining said sections against relativelongitudinal movements in one direction, and operating means connectedto the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative tothe auxiliary section and against the tension of said spring. 17. In asewing machine for stitching toa node formed from said body 1,5ss,isa

gether the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formedseam, the combination with a presser foot having an opening, of a stitchforming mechanism opcrating entirely above, the presser foot and havingits work penetrating movement in a direction acrossithe line of feed andacross the opening of the presser foot, a vertically reciprocatory clampcooperating with the presser foot to clamp the material against movementduring the penetrating strokes of the needle-and formed with a guide forreceiving the previously formed seam, said clampbeing formedwith anopening, a vertically reciprocable plun er disposed below the work andoperating through the opening of the clamp for positioning a node formedfrom said body fabrics into the opening of the presser foot whereby saidneedle will penetrate sa1d fabrics on opposite sides of said previouslyformed seam, said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arrangedfor relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under thefabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, avertically'adjustable stop fixed to the presser footabove the aiixiliarysection only,a spring for yieldably retaining said sections agalnstrelative longitudinal movements in one direction, operating meansconnected to the main section forvertically reciprocating the samerelative to the auxiliary section and against the tension of sa1dspring, and means for raising and lowering the bodily position ofreciprocationof the plunger without disturbing its reciprocatorymovements. v

18. In a sewin machine for stitching toether adjacent aces of bodyfabrics united y a. previouslyfformed seam, the comb1- nation with areciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental stitch formingmechanism for forming a series of connected stitches, of means forfeeding the body fabrics past the needle, j'me'ans for positioning anode formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle wherebysaid needle will penetrate said fabrics on-o'pposite sides of sa1dpreviously formed seam during eertainrecrprocations thereof, a tensiondevice for the needle thread, and means for releasing said tensiondevice during the formation of c'ertainstitches less thanthe'wholenumber thereof.

19. In a sewin machine for stitching together adjacent aces of bodyfabrics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with areciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental stitch forming mecha-.

nism for forming a series of connected stitches, of means for feedingthe body fabrics past the needle while said body fabrics are disposed ina substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides of saidpreviously formed seam, means for positioning a node formedfrom saidbody fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle willpenetrate said fabrics on oppo-.

site sides of said previously formed seam during certain reciprocationsthereof, a tension device for the needle thread, and means for releasingsaid tension during the formation of certain stitches less than thewhole number thereof.

20. In a sewing machine for stitching together adjacent faces of bodyfabrics united v rics past the needle,

by a previously formed seam,the combination with a reciprocatorythreaded needle tain reciprocations thereof, a tension evice for theneedle thread, and means for releasing said tension device during theformation of certain stitches less than the whole number thereof.

211'" In a sewing machine for stitching to.- gether adj acent faces ofbody fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combina and acomplemental stitch forming mechanism for forming a series of connectedstitches, of means for feeding the body'faba vertically reciprocatoryplunger including a guide for the previously formed seam for positioninga node thereof.

formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby saidneedle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite" sides of said previouslyformed seam during certain re ciprocations thereof, a ,tension device 4for the needle thread, and means for releasing said tension deviceduring the formation of certain stitches less than the whole number 22.In a sewing machine for stitching together adjacent 'faces of bodyfabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with areciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental stitch formingmechanism for forming a series of connected stitches, of means forfeeding the Body v n dl tion with a reclprocatory threaded needle- 88 efabrics past the needle, a reciprocatory plunger forv positioning a nodeformed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby saidneedle will alternately enter the. upper face of one only of the fabricsand enter and emerge from the upper faces of both. body fabrics, atension device for the needle thread, and means for automaticallyreleasing the tension device during alternate "reciprocations of theneedle. r A

23. Ina sewing machine for stitching together adjacent faces of bodyfabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combina- 7 tion with areciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental s itch formingmechanism .for forming. a series of connected stitches, of means forfeeding the body fabrics past the needle, a reciprocatory plunger forpositionin a node formed from said body fabrics into the path .of theneedle whereby said needle will alternately enter the upper face of oneonly of the fabrics and enter and emerge from the upper faces of bothbody fabrics, said plunger including main and auxiliary sectionsarranged for relative longitudinal movements and re -spectivcly disposedunder the fabrics on opposite sides. of c said previously formed seam, astop carried by the machine above (I the auxiliary section only, aspring for yieldably retaining said sections against relativelongitudinal movements in one direction', ope ratingmeans connected tosaid main section forvertically reciprocating the same relative. to theauxiliary section and against the tension of said spring, a tensiondevice for the needle thread, and means for automatically releasing saidneedle thread during 24-. In a sewing machine for stitching togetheradjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, thecombination with a reciprocatory threaded needle nism for, forming aseries of connected -stitches, of means for feeding the body fabricspast the needle, a reciprocato plunger for positioning a node formedfiom said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needlewill alternately enter the upper face of one only of the fabrics andenter and emerge from the upper faces of both fabrics, said plungerincluding main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinalmovements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sidesof said-previously formed seam, a stop carried by the machineabovetheauxiliary sec-' tion only, a spring for yieldably retaining saidsections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction,operating means connected to the main section for alternatereciprocations of the 10 and a complemental stitch forming mechano

